• Starting from seed: Plant with a starter mix in seed flats (with a clear cover), tag and name them, and use a Propagating Heat Mat. Start this process mid January–February. Seeds will generally sprout in about 10 days (c. chinense varieties take longer). Place a grow light over the sprouted flats. Use a spray bottle with distilled water to mist seedlings. When they get a third set of leaves, add kelp solution to the water. It is also important to harden off the seedlings before planting them outdoors. Refer to growing guides for that. See below.
• Starting from commercial seedlings: Find a reliable source. I have been burned many times buying from garden centers. Many turn out to be disappointing, mislabeled or a cross-hybrid. I buy my plants from www.chileplants.com and have always received healthy, vigorous plants. They also have an excellent Growing Guide on their website. • Replenish soil each spring: I use only organic products such as powdered kelp, bone meal, manure and compost. If there is also some leftover rice straw on the surface from the previous year, mix all of these well into the soil and water well. Let it rest and meld for 2–3 weeks before planting. When you plant, the soil should be moist, not wet or soggy.
• Planting seedlings: It is important to tag your plants; when they all grow up it will be hard to remember who is where. Plant them in rows, 18” apart. Dig a hole and sprinkle some EB Stone “Sure Start (contains beneficial microbes including Mycorrhizal Fungi), place the chile and gently pack the soil around it. I place a qt.–size PET bottle (top and bottom removed) around a plant to protect the seedling from wind and garden pests until it is well established. I cover the soil with about 3 inches of rice straw to help maintain moisture and to protect the roots when watering. Water after planting. To avoid root disease, DO NOT OVER WATER. Soil should be moist, not wet. I water at the base of the plant 2–3 times a week as needed, with a deep soak. If it gets severely hot, I cover chiles with a 40% shade cloth to give them some relief. It works great and you can leave it up untill they ave grown a while. - Feed your seedlings once a week with EB Stone Fish Emulsion with Kelp. They love it.
- If you have a problem with aphids, disburse a container of Lady Bugs–best weapon.
- During severe hot spells, cover the babies with an elevated 40% shade cloth so they don’t burn until they are safely established. It will allow plenty of light.
• When plants start producing pods: If they are about 12”–18” high, I start using the ultimate nutrient, “Fat Flowers” formula (an organic, biostimulant, rhizo-tonic elixir) from www.dragonflyearthmedicine.com. It may seem pricy but it’s the bomb! You make a tea and apply to the plants every 30 days and the pods will start popping. Best option is E.B. Stone Tomato & Vegetable Food and it works very well. • Harvest: During the season, I collect pods for cooking and dehydrate or freeze extras, depending on what they will be used for and process them at the end of the season for powders and sauces.
• Late Fall harvest: Some plants like Aji Amarillo come very late and I cover them with a frost protection and harvest into December. When the late green pods get an orange blush, take inside to a sunny window to ripen in just a few days.
• Bottom Line: Treat your chiles with love and you will get back the same.